内容摘要：Heat the oven to 350°F with a rack in the middle position. Mist a 9-inch springform pan with cooking spray.

Heat the oven to 350°F with a rack in the middle position. Mist a 9-inch springform pan with cooking spray.

He eventually studied finance in coastal Devon, but while working part-time in restaurants, he fell in love with all things food: learning from his peers, consuming cookbooks by top chefs, and spending all his savings to eat out at restaurants. “When you’re 18, you’re a sponge. You absorb everything,” he said.Fish sauce is an indelible part of Vietnam’s culture and essential for its vibrant cuisine. In small fishing villages across Vietnam’s long coast, families have made it for centuries but climate change and overfishing threaten the anchovies crucial for fish sauce production. (AP video shot by Hau Dinh/ production by Annika Wolters)

He came back to Vietnam in 2013 and got a job working in a bank. But every evening, he worked a second job — as a junior chef for a five-star hotel in Hanoi at night. He eventually quit both jobs in 2015 and started a gastropub in Hanoi. That didn’t go according to plan as he “managed to do everything wrong.” More failures followed — he calls them “lessons in my dictionary” — but in 2021 he opened Chapter Dining, a fine dining restaurant in the heart of Hanoi’s Old Quarter that celebrates local, seasonal produce and the cooking traditions of Vietnam’s mountainous north.The restaurant, with its facade of steel slats, leads to an open kitchen where Dung and his team regularly create a 14-course tasting menu that won it a spot in the coveted Michelin Guide Hanoi in 2023 and 2024.“I can finally call it ... my restaurant, my food, my philosophy,” he said.

Central to that philosophy is sustainability. Each menu is seasonal — warm, comforting dishes for the cold months and fresh, lighter dishes in the summer — and the ingredients are locally sourced. Given the erratic weather in the climate-vulnerable country, this means that he can’t always be sure of what produce will be available. So the menu adapts, letting nature decide, and the bottle of fish sauce is never too far away.“Fish sauce isn’t just about saltiness. It is as much about umaminess. It is magic,” he said, adding that he hoped more people would cook with fish sauce.

A good starting point, he suggested, is to use it to add a bit of that magic to the humble omelet. Three eggs, two teaspoons of fish sauce, a heap of finely diced spring onions all beaten together. Add pork fat to a hot pan and roll the eggs around.

“And then you’ve got a very nice fish sauce omelet. That goes down really well with rice,” he said.The new airport is a $1.5 billion joint venture between the Cambodian government and the Overseas Cambodian Investment Corp. It’s being built by the China Construction Third Engineering Bureau Group Co., Ltd.

The architects for the airport are the British firm Foster + Partners, whose website says its “design embodies a strong sense of place” and is “responsive to the tropical climate.” The terminal building sits under what is described as a single overarching roof canopy that is a lightweight steel grid shell, “with an innovative screen that filters daylight and illuminates the vast terminal space.”Construction is being undertaken in three phases. Initially, the airport is expected to be capable of handling up to 13 million passengers a year, with capacity increased up to 30 million passengers after 2030, and then up to 50 million passengers in 2050.

It will be the second major airport in Cambodia to open in the space of two years. In 2023, the Chinese-financedbegan operations in the northwestern province of Siem Reap, about 40 kilometers (25 miles) east of the centuries-old